Problems fitting home sewing patterns?
You may be choosing the wrong pattern size!
Choosing the pattern size by the bust measurement puts half of the extra room needed in the bust area in the back of the garment
For the full busted woman, determining the pattern size by the chest measurement reduces the pattern size.
For the small busted figure, choosing the pattern size by the chest measurement may increase the pattern size.
About American Home-Sewing Patterns’ Sizing
Grade rules are measuring systems that determine the measurements used to draft patterns and create clothing that fits established body types. Home-sewing patterns, mail order, and some apparel manufacturing companies use the Standard Size grade rule developed after World War II.
Although the bust measurements on the pattern jackets indicate the patterns fit A cup busts, the patterns fit B cup busts. This is proven by measuring the grade-rule slopers (fitting shells) used to develop the patterns.
Choose your best pattern size by the bust size that is 2 inches larger than your chest measurement.
Laurel’s testing in college classrooms with her continuing professional education students has established that most women prefer one-half inch of ease in the bust fit.
Choosing the sizing that fits the chest measurement, then modifying the front bodice bust fit, if the model has a cup size larger or smaller than a B cup, has proven to give the best fit.
Because home-sewing patterns are drafted to a grade rule, knowing how your fit differs than that of your best pattern size means that you can make the same corrections to all patterns in your size that are drafted to that grade rule.
Learn more about sizing at:
UTube
https://laurelhoffmann.com/
https://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu
https://www.linkedin.com/in/laurelhoffmann/
RSS Feed: https://laurelhoffmann.com/blog/
https://www.ravelry.com/projects/LaurelHoffmann
https://www.thumbtack.com/pa/philadelphia/drawing-lessons/fashion-drafting-sewing-books-classes
