77: Moving the Bust Area

The most important single fit aspect of a garment is the bust fit.

If a bodice pattern has bust darting, the darting often needs to be moved to allow the bodice to fit correctly. These instructions show how to do that.

1. Measure the from point to point. Divide the measurement in half.
2. Mark a straight-grain line on the front bodice pattern, that distance from the center-front grain line.

3. Measure the length from the shoulder to the true bust point.

4. Mark the true bust point on the bodice pattern, the measured width from the center front to the true bust point.

5.  Lay the pattern over the model to see if the true bust point is correct.

6. Lay tracing paper over the bodice pattern’s dart area.

7.  Use RED pencil to trace the darts.  With RED pencil trace the straight grain  that is marked through the waist.

8. Move the traced darts and straight-grain line so traced original true bust point now lies over the true front bust point. Tape.

 9. Trace the front bodice with the new darts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance down the center front.

10. Cut the front and back bodices in muslin. Pin together. Check the bust fit. Mark the darts’ sewing points. Re-pin the darts.

11.  Lay the bodice pattern over the muslin. Copy the sewn dart points. Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE pencil.

12. From the lower third of the armhole mark a line to the true bust point.

13. Fold the bust dart as shown. With RED pencil connect the underarm/side seam intersection with the waistline/side seam intersection.

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