Ever think about starting one?
Here’s some information about starting a clothing factory:
Start up finances:
You will need at least $90,000, probably more that you can afford to lose.
Essential personnel:
Factory supervisor
Accountant
Production pattern maker/technical designer to draft patterns
Sample maker/forelady to train and supervise sewing
Factory workers
Cutters
Sewing machine mechanic
Operators – (seamstresses who do piece work on the line)
Packers
Clothing production:
Industrial methods can best be described as low-level engineering. Patternmaking must be to 1/32 of an inch, sewing to 1/16 of an inch. Grade rules determine the fit throughout a size range. Patterns must be drafted to the grade-rule measurements. Sewing must be sewn on gauge to maintain the grade-rule fit and the customers’ fidelity.
2. The steps in the process vary, depending on the type of garment being manufactured.
3. Sewing skills vary from person to person and from factory to factory. An operator may be proficient at setting sleeves, but not know how to set a collar. A patternmaker may not be able to sew samples, a sample maker may not be able to draft patterns.
4. Factory personnel (and design room personnel, once out of college) learn their trades by oral tradition. Books aren’t used. No one sits in a class. The instructor (usually the forelady) sits by the new trainee who observes, learns, and memorizes the sewing procedure.
A newly hired sewing machine operator is first instructed how to sew on gauge. The instructor gives the trainee strips of fabric to sew on gauge. The trainee then practices alone until proficient – about an afternoon’s length of time.
5. Before a clothing style is sent to the factory every detail must be tested and written down in the designing department, then checked and rechecked for possible error. These instructions are sent with the patterns to the factory. The factory follows these procedures to the letter, conferring with the designing department when necessary. Factories are often required by independent designing departments to first make a sample for approval before being given the OK to manufacture the garment. Several factories may bid on the contract, each sending in a sample as part of the bidding.
Designing departments cut and sew sample garments. If the company also has a couture line, those garments may also be cut and sewn in the designing department. But this is unusual.
6. Every step of the sewing operation is timed. Union operators are paid a base amount per hour regardless of how many pieces they sew. If they sew more than the minimum amount of pieces they are then paid extra. Most operators exceed the minimum number of pieces expected in the time frame given for those pieces. Careful recording of each operator’s output is kept. If the excess exceeds a certain number then the number of minimum pieces required before the operator will be paid extra may be increased. An industrial machine does one type of operation only.
7. If a factory switches to another clothing style new machinery may be needed. An industrial sewing machine costs from $1000 used, up to $10,000, maybe more. For this reason and many others, factories specialize in particular types of clothing. Any change in production often requires relocation of machinery as speed is essential. Since machinery is bolted down to the floor, even that small a change requires financial justification.
8. Mass-production produces huge quantities of clothing. Factories traditionally cut 1000 garments at a time, although small shops may cut as few as 500 at a time. A shop of 80 seamstresses can produce 450 or more lined sleeveless jumpers with back zippers and ties in a day. A sample maker can sew 6 in one afternoon.
A T-shirt takes 5 minutes to sew. If the factory operates 6 hours a day, 5 days a week, each operator can produce 72 shirts a day, 360 a week. A small factory of 10 operators can produce 3600 T-shirts a week.
9. Pricing is determined by cost of materials.
Ribbing – wholesale – 22 inches .50
Thread .50
10. Costing must allow for seconds, possible theft, cancelled orders, and charge backs. It’s well known in the industry that if 1000 garments are sent down the line and 1000 come off, the garment is not going to sell in the stores.
Suggested brief evaluations to determine if a project is feasible:
1. Survey a selected small typical group of potential factory workers whom you hope to train – maybe 10. Keep a chart of the answers.
a. Ask if they have ever sewn.
b. Ask if they would be interested in sewing in a small factory.
c. If they are interested, have them sew fabric strips on gauge on a basic industrial sewing machine (industrial, single-needle, straight-stitch machine with a bobbin.)
d. If they are still interested, have them sew a few muslin samples, such as a mock up sleeve set or collar to determine if they have hand dexterity, or can develop it.
For example: a T-Shirt from a reputable mail order company
4. Determine whether there are national markets for this clothing. Reps wholesale garments to stores throughout the USA. Asking a rep if the product will sell nationally may yield valuable information about the validity of this project. At least one rep, probably more will be needed to market the clothing, as they serve different regions throughout the USA. They often represent more than just one manufacturing company. Since they work on commission, it’s in their interest to sell as many garments as possible.
Attending a trade show at the Javits Center in NYC will also yield information about the feasibility and market for the intended garments. Some reps sell clothing for several manufactures at trade shows.
Other factories are competing for work. The industry does not copyright most garments. What matters is marketing and price competition: getting something new on the market first and keeping the price below the competitor’s.
Laurel
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