163: Cheryl Grades to Fit

Learning how to grade to fit enables all figure types to successfully use home-sewing patterns.
Learning how to grade to fit enables one to successfully fit all figure types, even asymmetrical figures.

 

Clothes don’t fit? Home-sewing patterns don’t fit? Not happy with what’s in the stores?

Home-sewing patterns can be graded to a custom fit!

You will need a buddy to help with fitting the sloper’s muslin.

 

 

 

 

 


AND
when graded, the patterns preserve the original styling, unlike what happens when each pattern is fitted individually. In this post Laurel and Cheryl show how.

The muslin must be carefully checked, as its fit determines the fit of future home-sewing patterns.
The muslin must be carefully checked, as its fit determines the fit of future home-sewing patterns. After the bodice fitting, the original sleeve sloper is graded to fit the individual, then cut in muslin, sewn into the corrected muslin bodice, and its fit checked on the individual.
Grading is plotting, the procedure taught in middle school match classes.
 This is how:

Note: Grading is plotting, the procedure that involves the x-y positions taught in middle school math classes.

1. The bodice needs to be carefully fitted, as the fitted bodice will be used to correct the bodice slopers.

2. The sleeve sloper is added to the bodice and checked for fit.

3.  There is no need to make a skirt muslin. The skirt can be added with just measurements.

4.  If the bust fit was altered in the fitted sloper, the bust fit must be altered the same amount in the original sloper before the grading coordinates are determined.                                           

All blue and red lines are parallel and at right angles. The pattern is graded section by section.


5. 
The grading coordinates are then determined by comparing the corrected slopers with the original bodice slopers.

Grading to Fit presents the procedure step-by-step.
Grading to Fit shows how to custom grade to fit. It is fully diagrammed with step-by-step instructions. It has been college classroom tested with design room personnel and other professional women over a 30 year period.

 

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