Cutting on grain is essential
Accurate drafting, cutting, and sewing produces beautiful garments that wear well and last, saving both money and sewing time.
Cutting on grain is essential, if the finished garment is to look good and wear well. What matters is that both the straight grain AND the cross grain of the fabric is on grain WHERE YOU CUT, at ALL edges of the pattern.
Cut off grain, the garment may shift out of shape over time.
Check the fabric’s straight AND cross grain before spreading the patterns
Examine the fabric as you cut each piece.
This fabric, used to cut the jacket, is linen. Because the yarns are easily visible, the grain is easy to check. Cut off grain, the jacket may not look quite right to an observer of the finished garment.
Different fabrics require different methods of examination.
Plaids’ stripes are easy to check. Be cautious when considering buying printed plaids, as they can be printed off grain.
Chiffon and wool can be checked by pulling a cross-grain thread.
Some fabrics tear on the cross grain.
Tightly woven cottons that are off grain can be steamed back on grain.
For best results, cut one ply at a time
All patterns need to be cut on the open. Tape tracing paper to patterns designated to be cut on the fold and correct as shown.
Before shopping or cutting, determine the yardage needed. Lay the patterns on the fold as this gives a slightly larger yardage than spreading the patterns on the open.
To avoid any possibility of shading, lay all patterns the same direction.
Cutting right-to-left, left-to-right if left-handed, keeps the eyes the same distance from the work. This is tricky to learn, but the benefits are immediate. Turn the work as you cut. Few pins are needed. If the pattern moves out of position when moving the work, realign the pattern, then continue cutting.
For more information about cutting, visit any of these blog posts: 9: Cutting a Blouse 59: Shira Cuts 84: Sewing for Entrepreneurs – Cutting to Match 87: Custom Couture – Cutting to Match 128: High-end Cutting Tips
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4 Comments. Leave new
Such great information. You always give such good advice and insight. It is the little details that make a difference. Thanks for the post and for sharing.
Thanks, Jeannette!
I agree with M. Antry, it is “the little details,” that render great understanding of and thus, high value to this article, much like the skillfully sewn, high-end jacket, appointed with luxury bound buttonholes and faced peplum. Oh I want it, I want, I want!
Hi, Emily,
Glad you like the jacket info. I’m now copying a rather boring, but well-fitting coat. Information about the coat’s progress is posted at https://www.instagram.com/p/CWLcPOqLW01/
Laurel