Cutting on the fold: Cutting folded fabric from a folded pattern whose center fold has been laid over the fold of the fabric
Cutting on the fold is not recommended
It’s difficult to lay a pattern perfectly on the fold.
One can’t see what is happening on the underlying ply, making it difficult to be sure the underlying fabric is on grain.
Cutting folded fabric can increase the skirt’s width.
Why not to cut on the fold
1. The width of the fabric piece at the fold can increase the cut piece 1/8 inch or more, depending on the thickness of the fabric.
2. Unless the fold of the pattern is perfectly aligned with the fabric’s fold, the cut fabric piece will have lost or gained a triangular wedge of fabric down its center, distorting the grain and the fit of the garment (diagram 4-5).
3. The underlying ply of fabric may be off grain.
4. Cutting on the fold wastes fabric. Open layouts produce tighter layouts than layouts laid on the fold. Cutting on the open saves fabric and money.
Solution
Lay folded tracing paper with its fold over the pattern’s fold line. Trace the pattern.
Remove the pattern. Turn the tracing over. Trace the pattern. Open the pattern. Cut the pattern on the open.
Laurel’s books present industrial drafting, fitting, and sewing procedures.
They can be purchased from Barnes & Noble and her website.
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